Composite decking, compared to timber decking, has a higher specific density and is heavier. Please exercise caution when transporting and handling composite decking. Ensure it is stored and stacked on a flat surface prior to installation.

Standard carpentry tools will be required, such as; a power saw, string chalk lines, level, screwdriver, hammer, drill, post hole digging tools etc.

A solid foundation for the successful installation of any of our composite decking boards is vital. Using a string line (or other devices), mark out the desired positions for the holes for the stumps, dig the holes, and set the stumps on a concrete footing in preparation for the bearers to be attached. It may be appropriate to allow 24 hours for the concrete footings to cure.

Once you have constructed the subfloor bearers you need to attach joists, ensuring the distance between the joists adheres to the guide above depending upon which type of composite decking board you have chosen. Screws or fixings used in the installation should be of zinc, stainless steel, or galvanized variety to ensure they do not rust.

Please note; that composite decking is not suitable for use as structural components for any buildings. Do not fix composite decking directly on any solid surface or water-tight system, such as concrete, rooftop, or balcony, etc.

Recommended Design/Patterns

Not Recommended Patterns

Expansion and Shrinkage of Boards

Table 1 gap requirement for a full length of 5.4m.

You must leave enough gap when installing composite decking boards to allow for thermal expansion and contraction. This is necessary not only when laying the boards end to end but also between the boards. End-to-end, width-to-width and end-to-width. Gapping is necessary to allow for drainage and the slight thermal expansion and contraction of composite decking boards.

Allowing for Thermal Expansion (Gapping)

Width-to-Width: The general width-to-width gap is 2-5mm. The clip size determines the gapping in between decking by clip.

End-to-Width: The general end-to-width gap is determined by a number of factors, the length of the composite decking boards being installed adjacent to a longitudinal composite decking board, the temperature at installation, the co-efficient of thermal expansion/contraction, the highest temperature expected during the year and whether the boards are exposed to full sun and/or shade.

End-to-End: The general end-to-end gap is determined by a number of factors, the length of the composite decking boards being installed, the temperature at installation, the co-efficient of thermal expansion/contraction, the highest temperature expected during the year and whether the boards are exposed to full sun and/or shade. Depending upon the factors mentioned below, the expansion could be as much as 10mm at either end of the decking board.

How to install bullnose board:

You will receive the bullnose clips for securing the bullnose board. A few things you need to know about bullnose board.

We recommend you install the bullnose board first, not the last board. Due to the special design and structure of bullnose board, the board won’t stay straight once it is unpacked from the pallet, however, it will stay straight once it is fixed on the joist with clips.

Steps of bullnose board installation:

Step 1 Secure the starting clips, 30mm distance to the edge if you don’t want any hangover. If you’re going to put an upright facial board, you need to move closer to the edge, and the distance depends on the thickness of the facial board you will use.

Step 2

Fix the starting clips on the joist approx. 800mm to 1m apart, and make sure they are straight. You don’t have to put the starting clips on every joist.

Step 3

Push the bullnose board down and forward to lock it in.

Step 4

Secure the other side by using the normal decking clips.

You can also cut half the black clip off which allows you to slide the clips in between the decking groove and wall.